|
Don't despair if you've just moved into a new home that has compacted
subsoil where a front lawn should be or if your old lawn looks like a
worn-out rug. The time and effort required to create a lush green lawn
are probably less than you think. How? By laying sod.
Speed, Selection, and Easy Maintenance
Sod's big advantage over seed is speed. From soil preparation to final
layout, it's possible to install a modest-sized sod lawn in one day.
That's an appealing thought: dust and weeds in the morning and a green
lawn in the evening! Sod has other features to recommend it, too.
 Sure Selection
If you buy sod from a reputable local grower, you are guaranteed to
get a grass that grows well in your area. The grower may offer several
choices, from low to high maintenance, for instance. Also, some
improved varieties, such as 'Tifgreen' Bermuda grass, are available
only as sod.
Convenience
You can lay sod at almost any time of year, even when the ground is
slightly frozen or during the heat of summer (although you'll need to
water more in summer). In comparison, only spring and fall offer
sufficiently favorable conditions for sowing most seed lawns, although
late spring is good for seeding heat-lovers such as Bermuda and
buffalo grasses.
Smooth Start
Yes, you'll have to baby a new sod lawn for a couple of weeks, but
that's far less time and effort than for a seeded lawn. Until new sod
establishes roots in the soil, it needs watering twice a day, and
sometimes more often, during hot weather. In comparison, keeping a
newly seeded lawn moist may require a dozen waterings a day.
Fewer Weeds
New sod lawns suffer only slightly from weed invasions. Most soils
contain many weed seeds that are just waiting for the opportunity to
grow, and right after you prepare and amend soil, sow grass seed, and
provide water, weed-growth conditions are perfect. Unless you've taken
steps to eliminate or reduce weed seeds in the soil before planting,
weeds may overrun a seeded lawn.
Special Uses for Sod
Sod is especially useful where patches of lawn have become bare,
weedy, or damaged. Winter use of street salt in northern regions is
one major cause of damage. After removing the threadbare turf and
preparing the soil for planting, you can buy a roll or two of sod at a
garden center and place it over the area. Again, a seeded lawn would
take several weeks to fill in and look lush.
If erosion is a problem on a slope, no matter how gentle or steep the
incline, sod is the better option. Its healthy, heavy root mat will
withstand water runoff even before the lawn is fully established.
Where to Buy Sod
Especially in big cities, retail nurseries or landscape contractors
are the best sources of sod. In some regions, homeowners can buy
directly from a sod farm. Find suppliers in the yellow pages under
"Sod" or "Sod & Sodding Service." Or ask your garden center for a
recommendation.
Tell your dealer or sod farmer about the growing conditions at your
site, such as heavy clay or sandy soil, and the amount and kind of
shade or slope. Given extra site information, sod growers can usually
provide useful advice to help you avoid mistakes in either the choice
of lawn type or installation.
What's the Cost?
Save by Installing Sod Yourself
Sod is sold by the square foot or square yard (9 square feet equal 1
square yard). Plan to pay about 15 to 35 cents per square foot for sod
only; professional installation will add 30 to 50 percent to the cost.
Kentucky bluegrass and hybrid Bermuda grass are usually the cheapest
because they're sold in the greatest quantities. The most expensive
sods are slow-growing, specialty types like buffalo grass, which runs
about 45 cents per square foot, and bentgrass, which costs about $1.10
per square foot. Many of those grasses are sold for golf courses or
sports fields, not residential lawns. Generally, growers are very
competitive and sell the same grasses for about the same price, so
shop around for the best quality and the best prices for your area,
especially if you're buying from a retail dealer that marks up the
price.
When and How to Plant a Sod Lawn
Sod is heavy. One square foot of it weighs about 4 1/2 to 5 1/2
pounds, or more than 2 tons for a 1,000-square-foot lawn. Depending
upon the size of your lawn, arrange for helpers, if only to help you
lay the sod promptly. Especially during hot weather, moving the sod
quickly from the delivery pallet to the lawn site so that it doesn't
dry out or begin to biodegrade is important.
Before you buy the sod, till the soil 4 to 6 inches deep. Remove all
debris and large rocks. Have the soil tested by a county extension
office or a private testing service. Add any amendments the soil test
recommends: Organic matter such as composted fir or pine bark and
fertilizer are typical; other amendments such as limestone (in the
East) or soil sulfur (in the West) may also be necessary. Grade and
level the area to smooth the surface.
In areas where summer droughts commonly occur, you may have to install
a permanent underground sprinkler system before laying the sod. You
can always water the lawn with portable, aboveground sprinklers, but
an underground system is usually much more efficient and convenient.
Secrets of Success
With a little know-how, putting down a sod lawn may take only a few
hours (depending on the size, of course). To make the job flow
smoothly, follow these steps: Arrange for delivery of your sod only
after you have fully prepared the soil and on a day when you'll have
time to install it.
On delivery day, water the soil to make it moist and damp but not
muddy. Sod should be put down no more than 24 hours after it has been
cut at the farm, because the rolled sod will heat up and begin to
biodegrade.
Inspect the sod before the delivery truck leaves. Shake it to make
sure it doesn't fall apart. The sod should be green and the soil
moist. If you don't like the appearance, send it back.
Suppliers usually transport sod on pallets carrying 50 to 75 square
yards each. To avoid a lot of heavy lifting, ask the driver to place
pallets in convenient places around your property (but don't let them
drive over walkways or patios, because the combined weight of the
truck and the sod can cause damage).
Start laying the sod along the longest straight line next to your
lawn-usually a sidewalk or driveway. When preparing the soil, leave
the soil level 3/4 to 1 inch below the level of that straight surface
to make a neat, smooth transition from grass to pavement.
Butt and push the sod's edges and ends against each other tightly,
without stretching. Stagger the joints in each row like bricks, and
avoid gaps or overlaps. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the
slope.
Use a large knife to trim the corners. Avoid leaving small strips at
the outer edges, because they won't retain moisture.
To prevent indentations or air pockets, walk or kneel on the new sod
as little as possible.
After installation, roll the entire area with a lawn roller (available
at rental yards) one-third full of water to press the sod roots into
the contact with the soil. (If the roller were full of water, it could
become too heavy to move.)
One common cause of problems is uneven (or insufficient) watering.
Start watering within 30 minutes of installation, thoroughly wetting
grass until it soaks through into underlying soil. To check
penetration, lift a corner of the sod. If it isn't soaked, keep
watering. Once the water begins to run off, turn sprinklers off to let
water soak in. Then water again.
Continue to water regularly for the next 2 to 3 weeks. To test for
sufficient moisture, puncture the soil with a screwdriver. If it
penetrates easily, your lawn is in good shape; if there's resistance,
keep watering.
Technology for Tomorrow
Though they're still very unusual and difficult to find, look for two
new lightweight sods in near future. In the first type, which is used
for golf courses though rarely by homeowners, the grower washes all
the soil from the roots of conventionally grown sod. The result looks
like a carpet with a fibrous bottom and a green top. The second type
is grown in a thin layer of organic soil mix on perforated plastic
sheets. At harvest, the grower slices the sod into the desired widths
and rolls the lightweight sod off the plastic.
Of the two types, washed sod is more readily available. At least one
sod farm in every state grows limited quantities of it, usually to
supply sports facilities. Only a few farms are currently trying out
plastic-grown sod. Lightweight sod is more expensive than the standard
kind: In California, for example, it costs about 40 cents per square
foot.
The advantage of both lightweight types is that they are clean and
extremely easy to handle. The plastic-grown sod has an especially
sturdy root system that doesn't go into shock. It also comes in large
pieces, so it has fewer seams.
Before the Sod is Delivered...
Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of composted fir or pine bark over the
area, along with any other amendments (such as lime or sulfur)
ecommended by a soil test report.
Use a rototiller to incorporate amendments, then rake to level and
smooth the site.
Firm the soil by rolling, establishing its level 3/4 of an inch below
final grade to allow for sod thickness.
On the Day of Delivery...
Plan on an early morning delivery, then move quickly. Lay a strip or
two, and water it in. If it's a hot day, sprinkle water on the sod on
the pallet to keep it cool and moist.
Start laying along a straight edge such as a sidewalk, and keep a
heavy utility or old kitchen knife handy to trim sections to odd
shapes.
Roll freshly laid sod to press its roots firmly against soil and
prevent patches from drying out and dying.
Water twice daily (or more often during hot weather) until new roots
begin to grow into the soil, about 2 or 3 weeks. Use a rain gauge as
shown to measure the amount of water actually applied, and test for
adequate soil moisture by pushing a screwdriver through the sod. If it
goes in easily, the soil is sufficiently moist.
|
